NGALIWET sambil mencok hiris yang sedikit pedas, didorong segelas air teh hangat, beuh, nikmaat siah Mang. Orang Sunda mana yang tak kenal pencok hiris. Sambal berbahan baku kacang hiris mentah (cajanus cajan) yang renyah dan gurih dengan aroma cikur yang merangsang menggelitik hidung.
Tahukah Sodara, kapan orang Sunda mulai berkenalan dengan hiris? Kisahnya berawal dari hampir 200 tahun yang lalu. Saat itu Si Tuan Agung van Den Bosch mengumumkan diberlakukannya cultursteelsel di tanah Hindia Timur. Setiap daerah punya kewajiban menanam jenis-jenis tanaman tertentu sesuai dengan kondisi alamnya. Ada yang tanam kopi, tarum, kapas, enteh, bako, dan jenis-jenis komoditi ekspor bernilai tinggi lainnya. Ada pula yang mendapat jatah untuk beternak kutu. Euh, kutu? … Kenapa kutu?
Dari catatan seorang sejarawan jadul bernama Raden Asik Natanegara, yang dimuat pada Volksalmanak Soenda tahun 1930, disebutkan bahwa Soekapoera di zaman cultursteelsel mendapat jatah untuk beternak kutu ‘konzonielje’. Kutu ini dikenal dengan sebutan kutu lak (laccifer lacca) dan dikembangbiakan pada batang pohon kosambi (schleichera oleosa) sebagai inangnya. Jenis kutu ini menghasilkan liur untuk dimanfaatkan sebagai bahan pembuat cat sirlak, yang saat itu sangat dicari di pasar Eropa.
Entah Sukapura mana yang dimaksud oleh Raden Asik ini. Yang jelas dalam tulisan itu dia sedang membahas Distrik Soekapoera, yang sekarang telah berubah nama menjadi Tasikmalaya. Di sisi lain, ada juga nama Sukapura di Probolinggo, yang sekitar tahun 1938-an mulai mengembangkan budidaya kutu lak hingga sekarang. Ah, tak penting Sukapura yang mana, toh saya tidak akan membahas itu.
Kembali ke soal ternak kutu, ujicoba ternak kutu di jaman cultursteelsel itu kabarnya gagal total. Kutu-kutu itu berkembang biak pesat, menyerang dan merusak berbagai tanaman perkebunan di sekitarnya. Tak ada yang mampu mengendalikan ekspansi kutu-kutu itu. Semua orang pusing menghadapinya. Akhirnya proyek ujicoba ternak kutu itu pun dihentikan, kutu-kutunya ditumpas habis dan pohon inangnya dimusnahkan.
Ternyata, orang-orang tak pernah kapok dengan kegagalan akibat serangan kutu lak itu. Tahun 1926, si Tuan P. Van Der Goot datang dari India dengan membawa jenis kutu lak spesies baru. Saat itu van Der Goot sudah punya jimat penangkal agar kutu-kutu itu tidak berkeliaran jauh dari pohon inangnya. Jimat itu adalah tumbuhan yang dikenal di tanah Sunda sebagai kacang hiris. Di tempat lain ada yang meyebutnya kacang gude, kalau orang Inggris menyebutnya pigeon pea. Tumbuhan yang berasal dari daerah Odisha di pantai timur India itu telah terbukti sukses mengendalikan kutu di berbagai peternakan kutu lak di India. Kutu-kutu lak betah nongkrong pada batang-batang hiris ini. Dengan demikian, tanaman perkebunan di sekitarnya tidak perlu khawatir diserang kutu-kutu penghasil sirlak itu. Setelah diketahui jimat pengendalinya, maka negeri Hindia Timur pun kembali merintis peternakan kutu lak di daerah Bogor, Indramayu, dan Purbalingga.
Sejak saat itu para petani mulai ikut menanam hiris sebagai penangkal hama di pinggiran sawah atau kebunnya. Selain berguna sebagai pengendali hama kutu, tumbuhan ini pun menghasilkan kacang yang begitu gurih dan lezat. Jika polong kacangnya sudah tua, akan sangat enak jika digoreng atau direbus, lalu ditaburi sedikit garam. Polongnya yang masih muda, nikmat sebagai lalapan atau dibikin sambal pencok hiris yang super nikmat itu. Oow, tentu saja kacang hiris itu enak dan gurih. Kutu aja suka, apalagi saya.***
Mang Andi Espe, penulis, alumni Prodi Pendidikan Teknik Mesin FPTK IKIP Bandung (UPI).
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