ZONALITERASI.ID – Jajanan berbahan dasar aci seperti cilok, cimol, cireng, cilung, dan cimin tidak asing lagi bagi warga Jawa Barat.
Ya, camilan serba aci selalu jadi primadona jajanan kaki lima di Tatar Sunda. Selain harganya yang terjangkau, jajanan bertekstur kenyal ini juga memiliki cita rasa unik dan jenisnya variatif.
Tepung aci diambil dari sari pati singkong. Di beberapa daerah, tepung aci juga biasa disebut tepung tapioka atau tepung kanji. Sekilas teksturnya mirip dengan tepung sagu; lembut, kering, kesat, dan lengket jika dicampur air.
Bagi budayawan Sunda yang juga Wakil Dekan III Fakultas Ilmu Seni dan Sastra (FISS) Universitas Pasundan (Unpas), Budi Setiawan GP, S.S. (Budi Dalton), ada alasan tersendiri tepung aci paling sering dijadikan bahan utama
jajanan Sunda.
Menurutnya, pengaruh iklim dan kesuburan tanah membuat komoditas singkong sangat melimpah di Jawa Barat. Itu memicu kreativitas masyarakat untuk mengolah singkong menjadi beragam sajian.
“Singkong dan olahannya, khususnya aci, jadi sebuah warisan dan semakin dikenal. Di beberapa wilayah adat Jawa Barat, aci juga selalu hadir, diceritakan turun-temurun di dalam rumpaka, lagu kaulinan budak, dan sebagainya,” kata Budi, dikutip dari UnpasPedia ‘Urang Sunda dan Jajanan Aci’, Minggu, 10 Maret 2024.
Penamaan Variatif
Budi mengungkapkan, kreativitas masyarakat tidak sebatas pada variasi jajanan aci, tapi juga dari segi penamaan. Jajanan aci banyak menggunakan akronim dan dinamai sesuai cara pembuatan, penyajian, atau cara menikmatinya.
Misalnya cimol atau aci digemol (dibentuk bulat-bulat), cilok atau aci dicolok (ditusuk), cibay atau aci ngambay (adonan aci dibalut kulit lumpia dengan tekstur mulur berjuntai), cireng atau aci digoreng, dan lain-lain.
“Dinamakan cilok karena cara makannya dicolok, bisa saja suatu saat namanya berubah sesuai perilaku kita terhadap cilok tadi. Contohnya, cilok dicowel jadi ciwel. Jadi kembali lagi ke kreativitas masyarakat. Tapi yang penting, bahasa Sunda bisa tersosialisasikan di berbagai daerah lewat kuliner,” tuturnya.
Budi menuturkan, tidak ada aturan khusus terkait tata nama kuliner Sunda, terutama jajanan aci. Namun, dia menilai uniknya penamaan jajanan aci mesti dilestarikan dan patut dijadikan warisan budaya bangsa.
“Yang harus dipikirkan bukan penamaannya, tapi bagaimana aci bisa berkembang dan disosialisasikan dalam bentuk lain,” ujarnya.
Budi menambahkan, menjamurnya jajanan aci mendorong kreativitas lain, yakni Festival Bandung Lautan Aci yang pernah diadakan pada akhir tahun 2022.
“Ini menunjukkan bahwa kreativitas masyarakat sangat tak terbatas. Bandung Lautan Aci yang mungkin diambil dari julukan Bandung Lautan Api sekilas terdengar seperti anekdot, tapi memang begitulah faktanya,” pungkasnya. (des)***
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